Navigating the Marché du Film at the Cannes Film Festival as a First-timer

I travelled to the Cannes Film Festival in 2023. It was my first visit to Cannes, or to France for that matter. I didn’t know what to expect, and in many ways it was a leisure trip.

My goal was to meet as many people as possible, understand how international distribution and co-production worked, and if possible, to watch a few movies.

This article is sort of what I did, and my suggestions to filmmakers making their first trip to Cannes, and specifically to the Marché du Film. Obviously I’m not an expert. During my trip I met many individuals who have been returning to Cannes for over a decade, a few for more than two decades. Please treat this article as an entertainment piece than a serious guide.

Where is Cannes?

Cannes is in the south of France (red spec at the bottom):

It’s a quirky and small town, with sea and beaches on one side and hills on the other:

In many ways Cannes reminds me of Dubai in the 80s and 90s, before the real estate boom. It feels laid back, no one’s in a rush.

Unsurprisingly, almost all of the locals I spoke to, who don’t stay near the main “attractions” hate this time of year because it turns their laid back town into a sort of Disneyland for filmmakers and fans. Everyone’s looking for some kind of ride.

However, the festival and the business it brings is critical for the town’s economy, so there’s that.

What is the Cannes Film Festival?

The Cannes Film Festival is probably the most prestigious and well-known film festival in the world.

Some of the best or important films made the previous year get selected (by an apparently opaque process) in the festival in various categories. Out of these films a select few are ‘In competition’, which means they are, supposedly, selected by merit alone, and vie for the ultimate prize at the festival, called the Palm d’Or.

This year, the winner of the Palm d’Or was Anatomy of a Fall, a film I wanted to watch but couldn’t (more on tickets later).

The Cannes Film Festival is weird, with its own class hierarchy amongst filmmakers. A few Hollywood filmmakers like Martin Scorcese and Wes Anderson premiered their films this year. Yet, many huge Hollywood filmmakers completely avoid Cannes.

Many celebrities visit Cannes every year only to market themselves back home, or to find distribution or money for projects, just like everyone else. Many of them spend untold sums to visit Cannes when it is clearly not the right place for their films or careers. Apparently it’s also a place to be seen for some.

The most important part of the festival is not the red carpet (meh, a complete disappointment unless you’re awestruck by celebrity), or even the films in competition. The beating heart of the Cannes Film Festival is the Marché du Film, or the Film Market, and this is really why everyone’s there.

When does the Cannes Film Festival take place?

The Cannes Film Festival happens every year in Cannes, France, typically around May, over the course of two weeks.

In 2023, these were the dates:

• 16th (Tue) to 27th (Sat) May: The Cannes Film Festival
• 16th (Tue) to 24th (Wed) May: the Marché du Film

Why May? For one, the weather is usually nice, unless it rains. It’s neither completely summer and it never gets too cold (again, unless it rains).

A few other events happen right after. The Monaco Grand Prix F1 race (in Monaco, nearby) follows the festival. After that there’s the Cannes Lions International Festival.

The Marché du Film happens alongside the Cannes Film Festival. It ends earlier. It’s supposed to begin on the first day but most important events happen in the evening of the 16th or on the 17th. In fact, you could completely skip the first official day of the Marché du Film unless you have a booth or want to catch a film.

What is the Marché du Film?

The Marché du Film, or the Film Market, is where films get bought and sold. Think the hustle and bustle of your local clothes or vegetable or fish market. It’s exactly like that.

If you listen carefully, you’ll hear people talking about the film business. It all sounds serious. Some of it is. Most of it is just bullshit.

Many of the deals happen before the Marché du Film even begins, and the parties just show up for the publicity. These deals are announced during the first few days in the important dailies (more below). A newcomer (like me) might get the impression these business decisions were made during the festival.

Don’t get me wrong, deals do get made during the Marché du Film, but mostly people are window shopping. Most of the deals that might happen will close after a long sales cycle in the months following the festival. The sad reality is most films never make their money back, and you’re constantly reminded of this fact every second you’re in the Marché du Film.

How can a filmmaker be part of the Cannes Film Festival?

A filmmaker has to decide why they want to go to the Cannes Film Festival in the first place. Some good reasons are:

1. To watch films
2. To sell their film that is complete or in post production
3. To sell their film idea to potential producers
4. To sell IPR of previously made films, called remake rights, to other territories
5. To visit Cannes
6. To network and learn about the business

The last was the reason why I was there. More on this later.

The first, to watch films, is supposedly the number one raison d’être for the Cannes Film Festival. But I don’t buy that. It’s expensive to fly to Cannes and to live there during the festival. Most people can’t afford that. Also, let’s not forget it’s not easy for individuals in many countries to get visas to France (the Schengen visa). Most individuals who visit the festival to watch films are from France or from Europe. If you’re from a different continent, then it’s highly unlikely you’ll visit only to watch films.

Let’s say that’s all you want to do. Even then, it’s a shit show because you’re unlikely to get tickets! More on this later. All said and done, I call bullshit on anyone who spends all that money and time to travel half-way around the world to try to watch a few films that they know hardly anything about in theaters that are not any better than their local cinemas.

For numbers 2, 3, 4 and 6, you have the most valid reasons to visit the Cannes Film Festival, specifically the Marché du Film.

As for number five, visiting Cannes during the festival, that could be a reason – if you’re rich and/or have a yacht and want to rub shoulders with other rich and powerful folk. If not, please visit Cannes before or after the festival, when things are back to normal.

What badge should you get?

You can’t enter the Cannes Film Festival without a badge. It’s called Accreditation.

TLDR;

If you need the Cinando database, get the Marché du Film badge. Otherwise just get the Festival badge. It’s free.

Depending on the reason you want to visit the Cannes Film Festival, the color and ‘power’ of your badge might change. Here are the important badges:

• Cannes Cinephiles
• 3 Days in Cannes
• Festival Badge (gives you access to the Marché du Film area)
• Marché du Film Badge, includes a year’s access to Cinando.
• Press (also color coded) Badges

I bought the Marché du Film badge. It is expensive. I bought it because it gave me access to the market, all the film screenings, the pavilions and all the events. I was a bit late, and paid €459 for it. If I had taken the decision to visit Cannes earlier, it was €399.

Remember that you must have a current professional activity in the film & entertainment industry in order to register as a participant at the Marché du Film.

Marché du Film Accreditation

Those with the Festival badge can also access all of these, without having to pay for anything. Once you enter the Palais you can go anywhere. However, the most important benefit of Marché du Film is you get a year’s access to Cinando.

Cinando is an online database of film professionals, buyers, sales agents and projects looking for distribution, etc. I was there for the entirety of the Marché du Film, and it’s not humanly possible to meet everyone. Now I can at least reach out to those I hadn’t met.

For more information, check out the sections on Access and the Accreditation. Don’t blame me if the links don’t work!

Where does all the action happen?

Here is the order I recommend:

1. Get your badge

Once you get accredited you’ll be mailed a PDF of the location of where to collect your badge. The badge is made available through kiosks close to the Palais (see below).

You’ll need to bring the email with the QR code and scan it at the machine:

Then you get your badge, map and Cannes guide:

Tip: It is not necessary to carry around the guide (it’s heavy!). I found the map very useful though, especially because it has the locations of all the booths and who mans them. It made my life a lot easier.

Once you get your badge, you’re ready to enter the festival. Head straight to the Palais. Here’s a video of what it looks like from the outside:

2. The Palais des festivals (Palais, Palace)

The Palais is the central building in which three important things happen:

1. Film screenings and premiers, including the red carpet
2. A part of the Marché du Film
3. Press events

Your badge will be scanned every time you enter the Palais, or watch a film, etc. Your bags might be checked. I recommend you show some empathy, start with a “bon jour” and end with a “merci”, as the security staff are working flat out and do a good job, all things considered.

Once you enter the Palais you can go up the elevators or down to the Marché (market). The immediate washrooms are downstairs to the left.

If you’re there to watch a film you’ll need to head upstairs. If you want to go to the Riviera or Lerins head down to the Marché and walk straight to the end.

Tip: Nespresso has a free coffee bar on the first floor. Grab a cup:

3. The Riviera and Lerins

The Riviera is a building behind the Palais, and it also houses a section called Lerins.

The Riviera contains the bulk of the Marché du Film booths. I guess the most expensive booths are in the Palais, and the booths in the Riviera are cheaper. If you’re here to look for a buyer, sales agent or to network it’s all the same to you. Here’s what it looks like:

This is where the conferences, meetups, workshops, events, etc., happen. I did attend a few talks, a party and a breakfast meetup (for documentary filmmakers) here. Cannes Docs is in the Riviera, and they’re an amazingly helpful bunch.

From the top of the Riviera you probably have the best view of the beach and the international pavilions:

It’s a great place to chill and hide away from the rest. You can also have lunch at the balcony and you won’t be disturbed.

Once you’ve explored the Palais and the Riviera it’s time to step out. You can exit from the Riviera or go all the way back and exit from the front of the Palais.

Next stop, a pavilion.

4. The International Pavilions

These pavilions (white tents with inadequate air conditioning) are mostly purchased by countries that want filmmakers from around the world to film there. In return they offer incentives, tax rebates, etc. The Cannes Film Festival is also one large travel convention.

I spent some time in the Indian pavilion. We had talks, meetups and parties. Since it was my first visit it was important to know what to do. Who better to guide you than your fellow countryfolk?

I also visited the UK pavilion because they have some great talks. I didn’t visit the American Pavilion (AMPAV) because I’ve heard it’s mostly a waste of money. It’s the only one that charges money, I think about USD 195 or so.

Tip: I suggest you head to the pavilion of your country, or to the UK pavilion. Ask people for advice and help. Everyone was once a first-timer, and you’ll find some great advice. Also, attend talks whenever you can.

Here’s a view of the beach from the pavilion:

5. The Croisette

The Croisette (officially the Boulevard de la Croisette) is the road that runs along the beach (coast) in front of the Palais.

There are buildings opposite that house many production and sales offices (temporary offices, rented during the festival). It’s sort of an extension to the Marché du Film (Film Market) but you don’t need a badge to visit.

The Croisette also has the most important hotels (where meetings happen; you need to show your badge) and restaurants (where many parties happen).

And then of course, you have the Plage (beach in French). Some people like to be at the beach. I don’t.

The coolest thing about the Plage is the Cinéma de la plage, where you have screenings under the stars at night. It’s great, unless it rains.

There are also a few other important spots you need to be aware of.

6. The boutiques

There are a few boutiques on the Croisette where you can buy souvenirs with the Cannes logo. I bought a blue bag and some other items for friends and family.

This is what I carried:

The prices are somewhat reasonable, especially when you consider the prices of things generally in Cannes, or in Paris for that matter.

7. Le Petit Majestic

What do you do in Cannes in the evening, when the Marché closes (the Marché closes at 6.30pm, the films continue to screen till late night)?

If you’re invited to some of the parties, that’s great. If not there’s another option. If you still have the energy to continue networking, I suggest you visit Le Petit Majestic.

It is a bar somewhat behind The Grand Majestic, a five star hotel. Here is a map:

People hang out on the road outside. Most of them don’t buy or drink anything, but are there to chat and network. It’s a great place to meet fellow filmmakers and film professionals.

I’m not a fan of the food or beer at Le Petit Majestic, but your tastes may differ. The place stays open till well past midnight and it’s an institution all by itself. You shouldn’t miss it.

8. Other things to do in Cannes

Some things to do in Cannes:

1. Visit Old Cannes and take a walk. It takes about one hour and has great views of the beach.
2. Take a boat ride to one of the two islands on the south of Cannes. The first is for beaches, the second is quieter.
3. Shop (but I’ve heard everything is more expensive in Cannes during this time of year).
4. Walk along the wharf and beach:

9. Events

You should try to attend networking events, talks and workshops if you can. I highly recommend Cannes Docs. I’ve heard the Producer Workshops are good, but are hard to get into and the seats are limited.

I’ve been part of some great co-production talks and I learned a lot:

How to travel to Cannes

Most people take a flight into Paris and then another flight to Nice. Beware of luggage restrictions on budget airlines.

The train from Nice to Cannes is about 30 minutes. Slightly longer by car. You’ll get down at the Gare Cannes, which is quite close to the Palais.

You can also travel directly to Paris from Cannes via train (and the other way around). The trains are decent, and I suggest you book directly with SNCF to save money. The station at Paris is Gare de Lyon.

Where to stay in Cannes

Hotels in Cannes are really expensive during the festival.

The Marché du Film website lists a few official hotels and if you book early they have some good deals.

Airbnb is the best option, but again, book early.

If you really want to save money, try La Bocca. It’s on the western side of Cannes, and a bus ride to the Palais takes about 45 minutes.

If you really want to save a lot of money and don’t mind traveling by bus or train, then Antibes is another great option.

The problem with staying far is that sometimes the buses don’t run past midnight. I was staying about 30 minutes away by foot, and 10 minutes by bus. It worked out for me, even if I had a very late night out. It’s a lot harder when you’re staying far away, especially if you’re in a tux/dress and it’s raining.

Where to eat cheaply in Cannes

For free coffee head to the Nespresso bar on the first floor of the Palais. Another place for free coffee might be some of the pavilions.

To eat cheaply try out the food trucks littered across the Croisette. They look like this:

The cheapest thing you can eat are baguettes, sandwiches, croissants, etc. You also get ice cream (very welcome on a hot day), cold beverages and coffee.

Try to avoid the places on the Croisette. They’re not bad (at least not all of them), but most are overpriced and in my opinion not value for money.

There’s a McDonalds and MonoPrix close to the Palais if you want to grab something different.

Tip: When you ask for water at a restaurant, ask for tap water. Otherwise be prepared to pay for bottled water.

How to sell your film at the Cannes Film Festival

You probably can’t, unless you’ve laid the groundwork. Miracles can happen, but it’s very rare.

Selling a film is a lot complicated than selling fruit. The sales cycle is long. The typical sales agent or distributor needs to see a trailer, then watch the film, then make the numbers work.

Obviously you’ll need to get a lawyer involved to read a contract (if anyone has time to make a contract while in Cannes), and all of this is very improbable during the festival itself.

If you have a trailer ready use Cinando to find sales agents beforehand and get the ball rolling. By the time they’re in Cannes, you should be ready to close the deal. Then make sure you get that into the dailies so you sell more territories, etc.

Here are three things you could have handy:

1. A great trailer with great sound
2. A screener on Vimeo (watermark if possible)
3. A pitch deck or poster so they have an idea of how to market the film.

How to meet people and network

Get about 200 business cards made. Keep them simple. And make it a mission to hand out all of those cards during the festival. You can do it.

Prepare an elevator pitch. You should be able to get it out in under 30 seconds, and people will engage with you. I’ve had some great conversations in Cannes.

Reconnect with them later and keep the ball rolling. Obviously all this takes a lot of work.

Finally, use Cinando to mail the ones you missed. Business is business, and can happen throughout the year.

The magazines

During Cannes, some publications publish daily magazines.

The Cannes Daily is the official one, and contains all of the sales news. Screen has the next best magazine. I’ve found that the Cannes and Screen dailies are all you need. You can basically ignore the rest after the first couple of days.

The other dailies have some important information and advertising that might be of interest to you. As a filmmaker with a film to sell I’m interested in looking for companies that have marketed a similar film to mine.

Things to carry

Here are some things to carry

• Your bag (try to keep it light and maybe waterproof)
• An umbrella, preferably small and compact
• A raincoat
• A Tuxedo or evening dress
• Your badge
• A hat or cap for when it’s sunny
• Sneakers – you’re going to walking a lot. Don’t buy cheap sneakers. Get good ones. If you have cheap shoes replace the soles with Dr. Sholl’s. You’ll thank me later.
• Protein bars, mint, water and food.
• A powerbank to keep your phone charged.
• Your mobile phone with your films, scenes, trailer, etc. loaded so you’re not dependent on the Internet.

By the way, there’s free and good Wi-Fi at Cannes. The password is on your badge.

Watching films

I watched a few films in Cannes. The theaters leave a lot to be desired, and the scale isn’t that grand:

The ticketing system in 2023 was a disaster, and even the dailies reported how hard it was to get tickets. You need to login to a different online portal for your tickets:

The tickets go live at 7am in the morning, but by the time you check at 7am, they’re already gone. On one morning, the tickets were sold out before 7am!

There was a film I wanted to see, the Skeleton of Mrs. Morales. I tried to book the ticket the day it went live, and it was impossible. It sold out in seconds.

On the day of the show I checked again, and tickets were available. I booked and went to watch the film. Two thirds of the cinema were empty! How was it sold out but empty?

I really feel Cannes should give more important to those who pay for their badges first. The press get to watch films through special screenings anyway. E.g., Asteroid City premiered at 7pm, but there was a special screening only for the press at 5pm.

Even when you book tickets, it’s sit anywhere except here and here, but then you see everyone else disregarding this and sitting where they please.

Bottom line, it’s not a pleasurable experience, especially since the screens are small and look like you’re watching them on an iPad. This applies specifically to the balcony section of the Grand Lumiere.

Now you know why I think it’s baloney for people who say they fly into Cannes only to watch films. You can always catch them later. If they’re good they will find distribution in some form. Hell, if you love the film that much, mail the filmmaker directly and offer to pay $500 for a screener. It’s a heck of a lot cheaper than heading to Cannes to watch the film.

Who should visit the Cannes Film Festival?

Would I visit the Cannes Film Festival again? Only if I had a completed film and wanted to use the occasion for publicity. I can always buy Cinando separately and save a lot of cash.

Face to face meetings are important, of course. But in Cannes, everyone’s looking for the next meeting while you’re speaking. It’s pretty obvious. I’ve made some great connections and have had great conversations, so I guess everyone must visit at least once and judge for themselves.

Hopefully this article will provide you a roadmap for just that visit. If you’ve already visited Cannes before and want to chime in with ideas and suggestions, please let me know in the comments below.